The Exmark lawn mower blades may not turn on or engage due to various issues, including a worn deck belt, a worn tensioner arm, and a worn spring. To change the blade engagement belt on an Exmark Commercial 30 lawn mower, follow these steps:
1. Check the condition of the mower belt by checking the dipstick for “FULL” on the flat and curved parts of the blade.
2. Connect a volt meter between the two wires going to the PTO, turn the key on, and pull the PTO switch knob out. If there are any nicks or wear, file down any nicks and sharpen the blades as necessary. If a blade is damaged or worn, replace it immediately with a genuine Exmark replacement blade.
3. For convenient sharpening and replacement, you can use different amounts of chleated iron on both your lawn and theirs.
A simple way to diagnose a no-engagement condition on an electric PTO is to see if you have power and ground provided to the PTO. If you have engine oil, refer to the Engine Notice a slot or wear (Figure 18B and Figure 18C) or the Owners manual for an acceptable alternative.
Changing the Exmark Lawn Mower Blade is an easy and straightforward process if done correctly. You will need a few tools, including socket wrenches, gloves for safety purposes, and potentially some lubricant such as WD-40.
📹 Exmark Radius – Electrical Issues “Troubleshooting PTO”
I will walk you through the three steps. I took to diagnose the Exmark Radius 60″ Zero turn. Electrical Troubleshooting. PTO switch …
Why is my blades not engaging?
Check the belt. Replace if worn or broken. If the belt is too loose, adjust it. Check the engagement spring on the deck engagement idler. If broken, replace. Check for and remove any objects that are blocking the engagement idler.
Why won’t my mower blades engage?
Check the belt. Replace if worn or broken. If the belt is too loose, adjust it. Check the engagement spring on the deck engagement idler. If broken, replace. Check for and remove any objects that are blocking the engagement idler.
How do I turn on the blades on my riding mower?
Riding lawn mowers have an engine shaft with two pulleys that transfer engine power to the transmission and cutting blade deck. For riding mowers with a manual clutch, the blades are engaged by moving a lever that tightens the blade drive belt. The engine shaft spins the belt, which spins the pulleys and blades. If the riding mower has an electric power take-off (PTO) clutch, a clutch solenoid is activated by pressing a power take-off switch. When the solenoid is on, the PTO clutch engages the drive belt, which spins the cutting blades. 5 reasons why your riding mower blades won’t engage. Why won’t my riding mower’s blades engage? If your riding lawn mower’s blades won’t engage, check these five parts:
Defective PTO clutch components – On models with an electric power take-off (PTO) clutch, the clutch solenoid engages the drive belt to rotate the blades. If the PTO clutch doesn’t get power, the clutch solenoid is broken, or the clutch is worn out, the blades won’t engage. A PTO clutch can’t be fixed, so you have to replace it. If the PTO switch is faulty, it can stop the voltage reaching the clutch, so the blades won’t engage. Test the PTO switch with a multimeter to see if it is faulty. If the PTO switch doesn’t work in the “on” position, it’s broken and needs to be replaced. A worn-out manual clutch can prevent the pulley assembly from tightening the blade drive belt to engage the blades on riding mower models. If this is the case, you will need to install a new clutch assembly. Worn or broken blade drive belt – If the blades are not spinning, the belt may be worn or broken. If the belt is OK, check if it’s loose or slipping on the pulleys. If so, replace it. The cable that controls the manual clutch could be damaged or misaligned, or the tension spring could be broken. Replacing the cable should fix it.
Why is the blade not turning on my lawn mower?
If your lawnmower blades aren’t spinning but the motor is, the problem is probably the drive belt. The drive belt can wear out or break, stopping the blades from turning. Replace the drive belt to get your mower working again. We have a guide on how to replace a Flymo electric lawnmower drive belt. Click the “How To” button below and we’ll help you change your lawnmower’s belt and get the blades spinning again! If you have a petrol lawnmower, we have a guide on how to replace the drive belt.
Are Exmark mowers worth the money?
Received my brand new Ex Mark Quest 42 Kohler 70000 22 HP this week. The mowers are expensive, but worth it. Heavy welded deck, easy control, quick cutting, and very powerful.
Need to make quick work mowing your lawn? Quest E-Series zero-turn lawn mowers deliver professional performance and power at the tip of your fingers. The residential zero-turn mower allows homeowners to mow up to 2.8 acres per hour, moving up to 7 mph. Add Exmarks zero-turn maneuverability, and it adds up to a premium residential mower at an affordable price.
Ride in style and comfort on the E-Series mowers floating decks and ergonomically designed seat system. Every Quest comes with commercial-grade wheels to instill confidence in the riding mowers ability to deliver precise cutting and professional-grade traction for zero-turn riding. The E-Series residential mower is also available in a 42-inch or 50-inch welded steel mower deck and cutting width. A 22-horsepower Kohler® engine powers the Quest E-Series for maximum efficiency.
Also check out the Quest S-Series, our largest residential riding mower with a 54-inch cutting width.
Why are the blades not spinning on my lawn mower?
If your lawnmower blades aren’t spinning but the motor is, the problem is probably the drive belt. The drive belt can wear out or break, stopping the blades from turning. Replace the drive belt to get your mower working again. We have a guide on how to replace a Flymo electric lawnmower drive belt. Click the “How To” button below and we’ll help you change your lawnmower’s belt and get the blades spinning again! If you have a petrol lawnmower, we have a guide on how to replace the drive belt.
How do the controls work on a zero turn mower?
Keep the other lever pushed forward to turn right. Keep the left steering control in the forward position. Move the right control back to neutral.
Why won’t my lawnmower blades engage?
Blades. If the pto clutch is not receiving power the clutch solenoid is defective or the clutch is worn out the blades will not engage. Since the pto clutch is not repairable.
How to start exmark zero turn lawn mower?
Make sure the PTO is off. If the engine is cold. Close the choke. Turn the key fully clockwise to start the engine.
How do you engage the blade on a zero turn mower?
Charge the batteries. Charge the batteries before use. Load the batteries. For a Greenworks ZTR mower, load the batteries and flip up the seat. Set the cutting height. Adjust the cutting deck height on your ZTR mower. Get comfortable. Sit in the adjustable seat and get ready to mow. How do you start your zero-turn mower? That’s the best part! Turn the key to “on” and you’re ready to go. Pull up on the red knob to start mowing. Push the knob down to stop. Know how to control your zero-turn mower before you start mowing. Pull the lap bars to their middle position to stop. When you’re done mowing, come to a complete stop on even ground, disengage the blades, turn the key to power down, and set your parking brake.
If you’re a visual learner, we’ve got you covered! Watch our quick-start video for a tutorial on how to start your zero-turn mower. A zero-turn riding mower might seem intimidating at first. How do you drive something without a steering wheel? Zero-turn mowers are easy to use. You’ll be driving it like an extension of your arms in no time. Practice in your yard to get comfortable with your new zero-turn radius. You’ll be a pro in no time!
Why won’t my zero-turn mower blades engage?
Your blades won’t engage if your belt is loose or stretched. The belt could have broken. If you’re processing too much grass or leaves, they can pack up under your deck and push off your belt.
Why do my Exmark mower blades not engage?
01 – Exmark Lawn Mower PTO Clutch. The PTO clutch lets you disconnect the engine from the blades manually. When the clutch solenoid is on, the clutch connects the drive belt to the lawn mower blades. If the PTO clutch doesn’t get power, the clutch solenoid is broken, or the clutch is worn out, the lawn mower blades won’t engage. The PTO clutch can’t be fixed. If it’s broken, you have to replace it. Enter the model number to find the right part for your product. 02 – Exmark Lawn Mower PTO Switch. The PTO switch powers the PTO clutch. If the switch is broken, it won’t power the PTO clutch. The lawn mower won’t start. Test the switch with a multimeter to see if it’s working. Replace the PTO switch if it’s defective.
📹 How to sharpen lawn mower blades THE CORRECT WAY ( Angle grinders will destroy your mower blades)
This video will show you the correct way to sharpen your mower blades. Using angle grinders will take off too much material and …
You didn’t specify to test at the pigtail or spades on the clutch for the resistance (OHMS). So test the spades on the clutch itself. You can also test for continuity at the same spades. You can test at the pigtail for voltage also instead of pulling the whole control panel. Turn your key on and pull the pto switch and you should have 12v with the motor off. I think that’s easier and quicker because you test everything at the same spot. Then if you get goofy readings there you can go more in depth. Thanks for the article!
I, and apparently everyone here, uses an angle grinder. In over 40 years of sharpening my own, as well as friends and family, never have I had one issue. The balancing part is really simple . . . place a round-tang screwdriver horizontally in the bench vise and slip the blade onto it. It will balance itself perfectly level if it is balanced at all; a sagging or drooping blade angle will tell you which end to grind off a little more. This has worked for me for like ever.
Installed these on a riding mower youtube.com/post/UgkxetgfkJxfdT_B2vGYP-uNTLaBbim9OKTD . They were sharp out of the box, although I’ve never liked blade edges that were coated…not quite as sharp as I personally want. Using my belt sander, I removed the coating from the cutting edges and refined the edge enough to shave with them. So far, after three runs, these blades are holding up as expected. Even after hitting a few fallen 1/2 inch or so branches, the edges are still sharp as heck. No edge dings, no warping, etc. As far as installing them, the cutouts were of the proper size and shape to fit my aging Craftsman mower. Very satisfied.
This larger die grinder youtube.com/post/UgkxmwiwyX3ADeryrwvcsiwLeKxme6QNQmGL runs very smoothly in use. There’s virtually no vibration. Paddle switch with the safety trigger is a bit cumbersome to use, but is much safer. Grinder cannot turn on if set down on the bench.Note that this die grinder, like most others, runs at 25,000 rpm. Always use a face shield and hearing protection. If your grinding stone has any sign of chips or cracks, throw it away. At 25,000 rpm, the stone sees very high G-loads and could come apart explosively if the stone is damaged. Always run the grinder for a short time before using it to check the stone.This tool is heavier than some but very well made.Recommended.
Growing up I would watch as my father deftly used a mill file as he started from the back edge of the bare metal to the front cutting edge. Neatly taking about a millimeter of steel with each pass, he quickly brought down the surface to a razor sharp finish on the last pass…never going over the cutting edge more than one time. It was almost as if you could calculate how many strokes it would take him to reach the final sharp finish. I am 60 now and endeavor to match that technique each time I sharpen my blade…as I think of my Dad.
Great article. I agree 100% and I have used a file for sharpening for over 30 years. Two points to consider. WhenI file the blade I watch for a burr to firm on the back of the edge. This lets me know when the new edge and back of the blade are tangent. That’s when I file as you have demonstrated, with the file straight up, or I use a fine hand stone to remove the burr. The second point is that most blades are mass produced and induction hardened, so the hard surface is about 45-50 Rockwell. Using any kind of grinder or belt, WITHOUT coolant, will heat the blade over 800 degrees at the point if contact, and is hot enough to anneal the edge (draw away the hardness) thereby reducing the ability to hold a sharp edge. 👍great job in demonstrating the proper method. This also works on hand shears, pruning shears etc.. Don’t grind unless you have flood coolant as you are grinding.
I agree that a file works well on a blade that is barely dull, but in reality, most people let blades get very dull. A flap disc works very very well in this situation. A file would take awhile and wear you out. For those who don’t know how to balance a blade, simply grind/sand/file a little more off the heavy side until it’s balanced.
I prefer waiting until after the first mowing in the spring to sharpen it that way I can find all the sticks, rocks, bear cans, and whatever else blew in over winter with the dull blade and then I can have a nice sharp one all summer. As for using a grinder to sharpen it, the key is to watch what your last pass did and make tiny adjustments not to try to see the actual point of contact. He was right about not leaving burs though, if you leave them on they may try to roll under making the blade dull a lot faster than usual
I don’t see anyone here commenting on what I consider one of the more critical parts of the blade: starting with the part that’s visibly worn the most. Your edges on the blade are rounded off. Do you know why they’re rounded? Because that’s the part that hits most of the grass, and so you’re still smacking the grass with a rounded edge. Square it off and make it sharp to the edge. If that involves too much material removal, then get another blade and it comes with that perfect square edge at the very ends. Maintain that edge, that is the first thing that hits grass and it is why it wears the most. It is the most critical part of the blade and the difference is visible.
I always love these articles because they use brand new or barely used blades to show how to sharpen them and always speak out against using a grinder. I would love to see anyone sharpen the blades I pulled off of my riding tractor this week with a file. It would take a week. I did appreciate the nail trick for balance rather than buying that specialty tool. Thanks for the article but I still had to use a grinder on mine just to get the chunks out of it and then I did do a final run with the file once I had it really close.
I’m all with you from the good old-school mechanical perspective. I however mow my healthy green though bumpy field each week and accept the consumption of one set of blades per season. With that I am perfectly ok with using my angle grinder for a periodic sharpening. My 9 year old Simplicity tractor never suffered any motor or bearing issues
Angle grinder with about an 80 grit flap disc. Run a sharpie marker over the edge so you can see what angle you’re sharpening at. Hold that angle and keep the angle grinder moving so you don’t overheat the edge. Balance when done by removing a little bit more metal from the heavy side of blade – some people don’t balance and feel like it doesn’t affect their spindle life. They may be right, but the smoother my machines run the less fatigue I feel at the end of the day. I still have plenty of sharpenable edge left by the time that the kicked up lift portion at be back of the blade has worn paper thin and is about to start shedding pieces. Can you do a whole lot of damage with any high-speed tool? Yes, but, mower blades are cheap, used practice blades to develop your technique are even cheaper, and time is expensive. I’m also going to be keeping my cordless bit driver, my belt sander, my router, my chainsaw and a number of other tools that can do damage if you use them wrong way.
I’ve used an angle grinder to sharpen blades for years and it works very well. If you’re new to this process and still have the guard on your grinder it helps a lot to keep the angle the same across the length of the blade by holding the guard against the blade to steady yourself. And I haven’t technically balanced a mower blade in thirty five years and it’s never wrecked any bearings, belts or engines and my lawn looks as good as the next guy’s so….
September 2022 in Virginia Beach. Great article! Yours is the first one I’ve found that showed the proper way to sharpen the blade with a file! I have an angle grinder, flap wheel, all of that. I considered using that but I don’t have the steadiest hand. Thanks for the article, you just got a new subscriber! (and to the guys who prefer grinding the blade, to each his own!) I’m not at that level yet!
I too watched my Dad sharpen his table saw blades and hand saws with a hand file for so many years, he was a carpenter who would rather use mostly hand tools except for his circular saw blades for ripping plywood. Watched him sharpen my lawnmower blade and my chisels on a wet stone and have been doing it this way ever since. Thanks Dad.
Long time ago, Harbor Freight offered a large (10″) bench grinder, which i picked up and use for sharpening blades. Unlike all the other bench grinders I’ve seen, it turns at half the speed of the others… 1800rpm. The reason you want to file VA bench grind is the speed of the grinder taking the temper out of the blade steel. Sure am glad I’ve held onto it for all these years~
The file absolutely adds more precision, and allows you to carefully remove just enough to sharpen and adjust to balance, this can also be done with a diamond lap (the little fiskar files in the garden center). With that said, we are sharpening a coarse bevel (no need for precision) and any experienced individual with an angle or even a bench grinder can achieve the same end in far less time. Most beginners that just purchased a cheapo HF AG can easily butcher their blades, if they even manage to remove them.
Good article. Weather using a file, or bench grinder, I count number of full length passes and match that on other side to aid in keeping balance. 12 full – back forth passes per blade end, repeated both ends for example. If I have to go over 12 on second end, then I add extra passes on first end to match metal removal!
I use a die grinder with a pad & it’s the best way I found. It helps when I cut the grass as high as it goes to protect the blade from damages. Just get the cutting edges shinny again is good enough. Get it too sharp will make it get dull sooner. I get it sharp enough to grab my thumb I rub across it. I sharpen it every year before the mowing season.
You can use an angle grinder with the correct abrasive. This could have be achieved with a Flap Wheel Abrasive or a Sanding Disk. Check your balance the end that dips will need a little more sanding till it no longer favors either side. If you need Heavier Angle Shaping use a bench grinder on both ends. Then balance with Flap Wheel Abrasive or Sanding Disk. 👍 Always use Safety glasses and tools you are comfortable with using.
I have a grinder but I use a file. I don’t due commercial landscape so maybe its different if you do. I like the control I have with a file, with a grinder is will be off but not enough that it wont cut. The main reason for me is the metal shaving, I hate grinder with a passion when it comes to shooting metal shaving everywhere. With a file I can control it better.
Angle grider here, 40 grit flap wheel; cone balancer, works great, you gotta square off the tip of the blade and restore a straight edge from end to middle, the temptation is to round it, the tip is where the majority of cutting happens hence it’s the dullest point, and that means a lot of blade material has to come off; rounded off tips won’t cut; the blade doesn’t “cut” the grass, it’s more like it whips it off, and if the tips are rounded, you’ll start seeing streaks on a multi blade mower
Great article. Thanks for sharing your Knowledge. I’m a retired Pro Musician and I guess I’m a bit embarrassed to say my Wife knows way more than I do about anything to do with house repairs and upgrades. I’m kind of ok at pushing the Lawnmower. LoL. So I’m looking forward to learning as much from you as possible. Stay safe. 😎
I have several mowers – the most common go to mower is a Honda HRX from 2003. Still runs and cuts like new with blades sharpened via angle grinder with flap wheels – then balanced with a little pointed balancer that is many years old. My lawn is one of the best in the neighborhood. i also sharpen the blades for many neighbors. I save my file for the tedious jobs.
All I heard in this article is a confession from a guy who hasn’t practiced much with an angle grinder. He says “doing more harm than good” but doesn’t say how. It’s a mower blade dude, pretty hard to harm one. Make it equally sharp and balanced and it’s done. And I don’t have to send mine out to someone smarter when it gets chipped because I use a grinder 😆
So, I’ve been using an angle grinder on the same blade for over 10 years. (And I use a grinding disc and not a flap disc…) Yes, it does take a lot of material off the edge you are sharpening, but nothing to cause an issue. I finally had to replace the blade this year because the tips that push the air up had broke off… I got a new blade at Rural King for <$11. So, a new blade costs ~$1/year. A file would take much more time than an angle grinder. For $1/year for a new blade, my time is worth more. I'll stick with the angle grinder.
I have been sharpening my mower blades since 1965. Yep, I’m older than your parents. Been doing it the same way since I was taught by a professional landscape worker. Lay the blade flat on a strong surface, like a low, block wall. Put your foot on it, and use a file like the one in the article. Always push the file away from you and keep it at a nice angle using continuous strokes. Only ever sharpen one side. In the article, the DIY guy puts the blade in a vice. I wouldn’t recommend using a vice because having it flat on the surface allows you to keep the edge at the right angle. I never have brown tips on my grass because the mower blade is always super sharp.
Well, I happen to be with you. I’ve used a good quality flat file for many years and can dress a blade with total control of the bevel angle with a minimum of material removed. Like any tool blade, control of the bevel, generate as little heat as possible and remove only enough material to dress the edge should be the goal. I also find that I rarely disturb the blades balance with this method. Cheers …
I use an angle grinder with a cutting disk. It removes very little material per pass and is super easy to control. It takes a while but its a very accurate. Finish off with a small file to fine tune the edge. My blades are going on their forth summer of mowing about 2 acres per week and they has lost very little metal.
FYI I do many acres of mowing in Hawaii and get at least 4 times the wear on each set of blades by hard facing them first, then sharpening to a good edge. There is a knack to it and grinding sharp takes a little longer but wow they keep a sharp edge for days before needing a touch up. I have a bunch of hardface rods left over from owning a backhoe and dozer.
Apparently, you don’t live in Vermont where rocks pop up every year from frost heaves. I am careful mowing, but hitting them is inevitable and I have to sharpen my blades several times per year. A flapper disc on the grinder is the way to go and sometimes even that takes quite a while. Balancing always follows sharpening.
I was wondering on your opinion about balancing the blades. I had that same thought process for the longest time. The blade will cause issues if not balance and could ruin the bearings and such. I had a lawnmower shop tell me to get it close to balanced but the balancing is not very important. The reason is once you start mowing and hit a stick or a stone or anything that puts a dent of some sort on the blade or even just wear on the blade to the point its not sharp. After all of that use the blade is not balanced anymore. So how important is it to balance the blade if after the first use it is out of balance anyway? Opinions or thoughts?
I switched to a hand file 5yrs ago but I do not use a vice, I clamp the blade flat to the bench just like I sharpen an axe. Much easier to control the angle while putting a bit of body weight into the file for fast sharpening. Always wear gloves as a good file can get the blade shaving sharp, just like a good axe. So little steel is removed I have never seen it out of balance, and I test it on a blade balancer every time I sharpen. Straight blades are very easy to sharpen with a flat file but some mulching blades have curves that are more difficult for a flat file to get right.
Oddly enough, hanging a blade on a nail is for badly unbalanced blades. It may be OK for starters but not for precision balancing. Some blades have a rather large center hole and some have an opening like a figure 8 with splines. The pivot “spinning TOP “balancer is more precise. Besides, this guy just hangs the blade but does not show how to grind the HEAVY end or where to grind. Do your homework and learn from pros.
Eh, no. That might work for your typical residential push mower with relatively thin blades that get sharpened once or twice a season. I use commercial mowers and the blades are 1/4″ thick. A hand file would take all day. And I use a jig, so the blades are sharpened at the perfect angle every time. Quick and easy.
When using an angle grinder you do not use a grinding wheel you use a polishing/finishing/flapper wheel some may call it a sandpaper wheel,,, that doesn’t remove much cause you are not putting hardly any pressure on the material you are smoothing out,,,what you say is not wrong for most but a few folks are fabricators and welders,,,, and the balance is spot on 💯
💥🚫 See…it’s articles like THIS…made by guys without the very basic skill of being able to do a simple task like sharpening and balancing a mower xwith a grinder that ticks me off…DON’T ASCRIBE YOUR SHORT COMINGS ON EVERYONE ELSE…It’s not brain surgery and it’s easy to grind the blade back even sharper and better balanced than brand new out of the box. You just have to take the 5 minutes to learn how…🚫
I sharpen alot of blades for folks, and usually they are muck-covered, dinged and chipped horror-shows. I use a flap-wheel and finish with a small file, or I’d be there all day (I had to start one on the pedestal grinder last week, it was so bad). I think this lad gives good advice, little and often with a file is a fine way to go, but most people only seem to sharpen them once a decade! N.B. If you share an angle grinder, always rest them upside down.
Whatever method works, technique is the most determining factor. I was a travelling lawn and garden tech for Sears in the late 90s and used a die grinder to sharpen blades when that was suitable for the job. I had a 2×4 with slots cut into it as a jig to hold the blade at the correct angle for the cutting edge to be level and a few passes with the grinder did the trick, holding the grinder level with the work surface, usually a convenient hard surface. Most calls, however, the blades were replaced as part of a maintenance agreement with the customer.
Agree with the other folks who use an angle grinder. A flap wheel is the way to go since they grind the metal without taking too much at a time. I do agree that free-handing it can be an issue (except for those who are much more skilled than I am), I recently purchased the All-American Blade Sharpener (actually a blade vice) that you attach your angle grinder to and set the angle. Holds the blade tight and you get an a precise angle cut. Using a nail or one of those cycincal balancers makes sure the blade is balance.
A Dremel tool with a tungsten carbide spiral rounded bit sharpens a blade without even taking it off. Tip the mower on its side like you are going to change the oil, get the correct angle, take your time going in one direction. After sharpening, just one little pass to remove any burrs on the non-angle side and its done.
I mowed grass in the late 80’s. I was a farmer before. I took on mowing grass for the public. On the farm we would take plow points. Subsoiler points, and shanks, and use a hard surface welding rod to weld over the parts of the shank, points, that wore. So I did the same to my lawn mower blades Even put a bead on the cutting edge. They stay sharp longer. Some companies sell a hard surface blade now. But they do not put a bead on the cutting edge of the blade, or wear it wears the most.
I recommend that you review a company: All American Sharpener. The 5005 version allows for 15 to 45 degree grinds and sets the proper angle to the given blade that you own. Recommend T29 Flap Grinder Blade and 40 grit. Creates a professional grind and pays for itself quickly. In our region of the US, it takes 30 to 40 day backlog to get your blade sharpened. The All American Sharpener is amazing and I help several of my neighbors as well!
Appreciate the concern, but every 3 to 4 mows I use an angle grinder with a flap wheel disc and the blades come out mint. They balance out just fine. If you know what you’re doing then do what works for you. If I was that concerned, I would pull out my WorkSharp MK2, but the flap wheel is way quicker.
If you sharpen blades for a living you can get pretty good with an angle grinder at maintaining the correct angles. Wall mounted blade balancers are a great tool to really be sure it’s balanced so you can be sure you don’t have vibration when fitted back on the mower. What I see a lot of people doing is sharpening another angle to the under side of the blade which should be kept flat, this is bad don’t do it for two reasons, the blade will dull quicker and also it’s the flat under side that keeps both ends parallel to each other for the most accurate cut. If the bottom is rounded off you need to grind the angle all the way back till it’s flat again, this is often the case with blades and can take a lot of grinding.
Hi, i use the homemade belt sander, 2 x 42 driven by 1 hp, rotating about 5,000 rpm. With a bucket of oil handy, i sharpen away. Only takes about 2 minutes, 1 minute or less, each end. Multiple dips, in oil after 2 passes. Works great !. then i balance it, as i took about the same off, each end. (old guy)
My mower blade is dull and have nicks/burrs on it, I Need To Hear Votes! What Tool Should I Use To Sharpen My Lawn Mower Blade? “As A First To Sharpen The Mower Blade..” buy a hand file? electric angle grinder W/flap disc? Or Bench Grinder? But I don’t have a work bench or workshop for a bench grinder😩
I’ve grinded my blades for years, get several uses put of them, and work great. Trick to it is, you want them sharp, but not make them super sharp or the edge thin. Small landing on edge. Don’t go crazy. Go slow and pay attention to detail. Like he said even angle, he’s right about all fundamentals. A rookie can screw it up easy. I’m a metal worker so im familiar with grinding. You can use a grinder just be careful.
It never would have occurred to me to use an angle grinder for that purpose. I use a bench grinder once at the beginning of each season and then a whetstone before each mow. Also, my reason for wanting a sharp blade isn’t for the sake of the grass, it’s that a mower with a dull blade is much more difficult and time consuming to use.
Unless you need to sharpen a large number of blades the file is the way to go, It cuts with much more control. Doesn’t damage the temper. Maintains a 30 degree angle. Cuts flat and straight. Doesn’t round the end of the blade. Doesn’t remove as much material, your blades last longer. Cheap to buy and easy to use. Will give you as close to a factory edge as possible, you won’t have to sharpen as often. Quicker is not always better or cheaper.
There are many ways to sharpen a mower blade, but anyone can pick up a file and do it themselves quickly and easily. I think people like the idea of a power tool that doesn’t require skill, but don’t be afraid of a simple hand file. Don’t focus on the bevel but get to the edge and get the metal to form a burr. You can use a sharpie to mark the blade and see what you are removing if you are new to this. Knock off the burr and you can quickly check the balace as shown before reinstalling. I sharpen mine a few times each year, which helps keep it sharp easier.
i just use an angle grinder but there is something you forgot to mention which is heat, if you cause too much heat to the blade whilst grinding it, it will cause heat treatment issues that will cause the edge to be too soft making it dull faster. i just use my fingers, check if its too hot, if it is i just absorb the heat with water or my hand and keep going. the absolute best way though will always be the belt grinder, it gives a sweet flat edge without any skill involved
I use a sanding disc on my grinder I have a balancer but I dont use it unless I get a really bad damaged blade!. I have a 6 ft finish mower behind a tractor I have grease fittings in the top of the three spindles and as long as they are greased the first set of spindles lasted 10 years and only one went bad but I replaced all three and all the pulleys. I put a new set of blades on about every three years. Now on our zero turn I use a file on the blades and I balance them!. Even though I can grease the spindles they are exspensive compared to my 6 ft finish mower!.
My 2003 Honda HRX still runs like new. I have 2 sets of blades for it, one is the original that still has years of life remaining. The reason I have 2 sets is so that when I remove one set, I install the other set and then do the sharpening later. I use an angle grinder w/60 grit flap wheel. My lawn is one of the best in the area. I also sharpen many of the neighbors blades. Twice per year is fine as long as not grinding up rocks. The second blades of the year grind up the leaves in the fall. My first set of blades are 20 years old, second set are about 15 – I wonder how long they would last if I sharpened them THE CORRECT WAY???
Angle grinders will not destroy your blades if you use them wisely. It’s not the grinder, it’s the abrasive you use. Higher grit flap discs won’t remove any more metal than a file. I use two sets of blades that I change between Spring and Fall. Waxing the blades with furniture paste wax prevents rust on the ones in waiting. I’ve never had a rusty blade to change when using wax.
One thing I learned after buying several new blades for my riding mower. I took out the new blades and not one of them was even close to having a sharp edge! I originally thought they sent me blades that weren’t sharpened at all? I called the company and complained my blades are not sharpened, their all full! There’s an angle to the blade but there’s close to a 1/16-1/8″ flat edge! The company rep explained to me that the mower blades should never be sharpened to a sharp edge. Reason being that the sharp edge easily gets smacked into and that sharp edge gets dings in it very quickly that then takes even more grinding to get those dings out of the blade when you go to sharpen the blade again! By leaving that 1/16″-1/8″ flat edge the blades don’t get the dings near as much if at all! Your blade will be easier to sharpen next time, but you still leave that flat edge as it was when you got your new blade. Since I learned this I have looked at more new mowers to see what the blades looked like? They all have that flat edge, none are sharpened to anything close to a knife edge!
There must be twenty articles out there about the ‘right’ way to sharpen lawn mower blades and chain saw chains. Every one says theirs is the ONLY right way. I don’t use an angle grinder, but don’t care if someone else does. Since I’m also a wood turner, I’ve a slow speed grinder setup with an 80 grit stone wheel that I used (two sets of blades and I swap one out and then sharpen). It works for me. Whatever works for you is fine.
I do A Lot of mowing with on a Farm and Orchard. Lots of sticks. Been sharpening blades on Slashers and Mowers for 50 years. To what my Father called Axe Sharp. Not Scalpel sharp, Axe sharp… Will always use a 9′ Angle Grinder. Because, It tears the Steel off Quick, without cooking the Edge. Clamping blade as close as possible to the vice. 2 to 5 quick swipes, depending on wear/damage. Lawn mower blades are sharpened every 3 to 4 hours at My place. Balance is Vital,, Have used Kitchen scales on bigger single slasher blades that are a few Kilo’s each. Sharp blades, pay for themselves, in Time saving and Fuel consumption..
Man yeah you’re right about most of that. But correct is a strong word. I can put an edge on a mower blade with it still on the spindle that you could shave with using a side grinder. But I don’t. I put the proper edge on it instead., bout 25* is good. And I don’t balance them other than by eye unless I feel one vibrating, and that’s almost always more due to a bent blade. I’ve never put a spindle on a mower of my own and I’ll use a rider like a bush hog sometimes. A little finesse goes a long way.
I have been using my angle grinder to sharpen my blades for over 20 years. I have found a flap disk works better than a grinding disk. Flap disks don’t heat up the blades, which can take the temper out of the blade. Pick up an inexpensive blade balancer at Walmart. It has been proven many times that balancing with a nail is better than nothing, but not very accurate.
The title of the article is not correct, it should read “you can destroy your mower blades if you don’t know how to use tools”. It doesn’t matter what tool you use so long as you create the correct profile without overheating the edge and check the balance before you call it done. It’s not the tool, it’s the person hanging onto it that matters.
My wife bought me a lawn mower sharpening tool to hold the grinder at the proper angle with the proper grinding attachment. Now I have mallet finger because she wanted me to sharpen a blade that didn’t need sharpening and pinched my finger between the guard bar on the discharge and the tip of the blade.
It IS NOT the angle grinder that draws the temper of the blade, it IS HEAT! Now modern blades aren’t “hard” all the way through, only on the surface. It’s known as “induction hardening” and costs a LOT less. The 103-year-old owner who passed last year of the mower shop I’ve used for 60+ years used (and his grandkids STILL use) a 1″ belt sander with a silicon carbide belt (100-150 grit I’d guess) and a water bin and sharpen everything from grass shears to hand loppers to flail-mower blades 40″ long (Brush-Hog blades).
25 years in the mowing business and I have only ever used a professional mower blade grinder or a file. Since I no longer have several 3-blade mowers, I draw-file everything now, because I want sharp blades that last. If you’re not familiar with the term “draw-filing”, check it out. You can spend tens of thousands of dollars on a mower, but if your blades suck, you’re just out 4-wheelin’. If you or your people are using a damned angle grinder, you’re not doing it right.
To each his own but here’s my experience… I’ve had a lawn care business for about a decade and I naturally sharpen all of my mower blades myself.. Since the lawns I cut I small I only have push mowers (2 Honda 21″) and I’m seriously considering buying the Ferris FW15 push mower… That being said I’ve sharpen these blades with an angle grinder for years with fast, easy and perfect results. I actually have to remove a lot of material since blades often hit a rock, concrete or a stray bolt, and receive a chip or a small indentation that has to be grinded down and then level the edge. Angle grinder with a segmented grinding disc is a perfect tool. All you need after that is that small conical thingy (a tool if you wish) with which you can check if the blade is in level. If not remove some material from the heavy side and voila. If somebody thinks that with this method I go through a set of blades per season – you’re dead wrong.. Blades have a lifespan of 5-6 years, if your luck doesn’t run out and you hit a massive fixed 3/4″ bolt in a tall grass and you destroy not only your blade but your crankshaft too.. Oh happy days…. ( I think I invented some new cuss words that afternoon..)
I use a flap wheel on my battery powered angle grinder with light pressure works very well. BUT I learned to use the Japanese sharpening trick on mower blades. after sharpening the blade angle and very lightly the back side of the blade, I put a flat edge on the cutting edge of the sharpened blade. maybe a 16th of an inch. This does two things. The grass will bend over the blade edge and still cut clean. The flat edge versus a sharp edge resists being ruined by yard debris. For rock hits that put a dip in my blades I use a MIG welder to add material back to the blade. Yeah I know that’s not for everyone. Just some tips. I am using a 6 foot finish mower behind a utility tractor so I have three 2 foot blades to sharpen. The mower deck probably weighs 5 to 6 hundred pounds so I use an engine hoist on the back of the mower deck to get it “safely” high enough to take the blades off for sharpening. also do not put any angle on the back of your blades. Its ok to dress the back of the blade but keep them flat.
Putting heat into the blade will soften it, go carefully with your grinder and you’ll be fine. To balance I put a Stanley knife blade in a vice and position the centre hole of the mower blade over the knife blade right in the centre. Then remove material from the side that falls until it balances out. Easy.
I’ve always sharpened mine with the angle grinder. Before I turn the grinder on I get the disc parallel to the angle I’m finishing. The only problem I have with the article is the nail balancing method. Surely it need to be balanced from dead centre of the mounting hole? The nail method drops the whole blade a couple of mm so it’s not likely to be inclined to roll around to the heavy spot. Or to put it another way, if you were to fill that hole with a welder and re drill it off centre, it will vibrate a hideous amount I suspect.
Your file had two different sides which is good. You didn’t mention that the side you used first was a double cut file which has crosscut groove lines on it. This is the type of file you want to use to sharpen a mower blade. Double cut file, they take off more metal quicker to make sharpening faster and easier. I don’t even need a vice. Just hold down blade, like on top of garbage can and file away. Skim file the bottom edge too, and the finish edge is razor sharp.
Pretty good vid, there is a couple of major points . Balancing is extremely important also you do not need a razor sharp edge. File your blades hmm?? I am assuming this is push mower friendly. There is really no absolute right way, just a preferential way to sharpen blades. But a sharpened blade with any angle between 45 degrees to 25 degrees from flat take less power. The grass really doesn’t care, it is the home owner whom needs that “manicured lawn”. However on a multi-blade mower that rounded tip will sometime leave a string of uncut grass between them, needs to be 90 degree end tip. Just put a well balanced blade with a good edge on the mower, cut the grass and repeat next week.
Great article. I’ve been sharpening lawn mower blades with a hand file for roughly 45 years. It’s never failed to put a nice “sticky-edge” on my blade. I think the trick is to not let it get too dull. A couple of draws across the blade before each use keeps it in good shape. But, I’m just an old fat white guy that’s been cutting lawns since I was 13 years old. What do I know.
I’d have to sharpen my blades every month to get them to look like your start condition. I have two blades on a mower deck for our lawn tractor, and they have a weird shape since they are mulching blades. Usually there will be a few dings and rounded over edges. Probably would take me an afternoon to do them by hand. Never had any problems doing them with a grinder… I usually use a flap disk now but used to use just a standard wheel.
Grinding at an angle higher than 30º is almost as bad as a dull edge. It takes more work to keep the low angle, and that’s why a lot of people concentrate more on the edge than the angle of the whole ground surface. If you look at the blade setting flat, from the end, the angle should point to 2 o’clock. It will cut better and last longer.
I use a Dremel with a little grinding wheel to get the deep rock pits out, then use a file as needed to put a good edge back on. I’ve never had an issue of the blade being unbalanced. I just try and remove the same amount from both sides. It’s not rocket science, boys. Maybe it is if you’re running some high-class expensive mower, or a multi-blade deck mower for work. But, I have an older mower that’s been used and abused and it runs great, cuts good….. Just take your time and try to keep them even.
You are giving us advice oh how to do things right? Like you are the expert? Look at those extension cables hanging on the wall behind you. When they were wound up they were wrapped around the elbow and an open hand. This is a great way to destroy an extension cable. I know this because one can see the twist in everyone of those cables. The twist eventually weakens the strands of wire an break. This cause high resistance in the cable causing the tool to get a lower voltage thus increasing the current required to make the tool run.
Anybody using a standard abrasive wheel on a mower blade is crazy. Using a flap disc (I use a slightly worn one, less aggressive material removal) is 100% safe and effective. If you’re like me and you have more hours on a grinder than every other sort of tool combined, keep doing what you’re doing–you’re fine.
Ha! I have had a yamaha powered mower for 30 years and have never sharpened the blade. The most I have done is smooth out dings with a file when it has hit a stone. It still cuts nicely. Certainly the the growth is not stunted- I wish it were. Nor he engine doesn’t struggle, so why would I mess with it? If I had been sharpening it regularly I would have had to replaced it many times.
Is using a file more precise than a side grinder – sure. Do most people sharpen them so often that it is a simple job – nope. Usually need to remove a lot of material to get a good even edge, if you ever hit any objects while mowing. I have used a side grinder for about 30 years with zero issues, your mileage may vary. May I extend some advice regarding rolling up extension cords as seen in the background? Don’t roll them up so tightly. Try using loops the size of your wingspan, it will make your life easier.
Hope I’m wrong here but it appears your using a file without a handle and that can be dangerous. The roughing cut is done with a double cut file like your using. The other side in this case is a single cut also called a mill smooth or flat bastard. I keep an extra set of blades I can quickly swap out during mid season . Files work great unless you hit a rock and have lots more meat to grind off. Then out comes the angle grinder,then back to filing. Angle grinding is ok in experienced hands and so is filing but both can bite if your careless.
Dad had a huge small engine repair business while I grew up. One of my summer jobs was sharpening blades, with an angel grinder. Now I leave mine a little dull just to keep the grass from growing back so fast. Plus cutting it as close as possible, like scalping it. I have friends who have spent thousands of $$$$$ putting in sprinkler systems, and then complain about having to mow all the time. I don’t get it.