The Toyota Prius has a simpler AWD system designed to maximize fuel efficiency and minimize weight and drag. Its rear motor is an induction-type unit that is only available at speeds below 43 mph. Modern 4WD systems are full-time, meaning they stay engaged, while automatic systems automatically switch between two- and four-wheel drive. All-wheel drive (AWD) is a vehicle drivetrain system in which all four wheels receive optimal power as needed. AWD is designed to optimize on-road traction, while 4WD is more of a one-trick pony for off-road applications.
All-wheel drive (AWD) is typically used in vehicles designed for on-road driving, such as sedans and SUVs. AWD vehicles are equipped with sensors that detect slippage and automatically transfer power to the wheels with the best traction. In a full-time AWD system, the car is always in all-wheel-drive mode, meaning all four wheels constantly receive power. Driving on corners becomes difficult with 4WD engaged, as the vehicle may lose traction due to all four wheels spinning at the same rate.
AWD or All Wheel Drive usually means that all the wheels receive power from the engine. While most 4WD pickup trucks and SUVs use a “part-time” system, some vehicles use “full-time all-wheel drive.” Most AWD vehicles are designed to run normally in two-wheel drive, disengaging one axle to use less fuel.
In summary, all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive are two distinct types of vehicle drivetrain systems. AWD is designed to optimize on-road traction, while 4WD is designed for off-road applications. Understanding the differences between these two systems is crucial before making a decision.
📹 The Difference Between AWD vs 4WD
What’s the difference between all-wheel drive and 4-wheel drive? 4WD is not on all the time, under normal conditions, only theĀ …
Should the AWD lock be on or off?
With AWD on, your vehicle will automatically choose which wheels to power. With the lock on, all wheels get an equal amount of power. This is useful when driving off-road, in bad weather, or on slippery terrain.
Can you turn AWD on and off?
What is the AWD lock? The AWD lock is a button in some vehicles with an AWD system. You can turn it on or off to turn on or off all-wheel drive.
With the AWD lock on, power is evenly split between all four wheels. With AWD on, your vehicle decides which wheels to power. With the lock on, all wheels get an equal amount of power. This is useful when driving off-road, in bad weather, or on slippery terrain. When to use the AWD lock. A vehicle with the ability to evenly distribute power to both the front and rear wheels is best for difficult driving. Not all vehicles with AWD have the AWD lock, but it gives drivers more freedom.
What can go wrong with AWD?
7 Common 4 Wheel Drive Problems and How to Fix: Low Tire Pressure. Low tire pressure is a common 4WD problem. … Wheel alignment issues. … Transfer case problems. … Axle Problems. … Differential issues. … 6 Clutch Problems. … 7. Brake Problems. … Call Dixie 4WD today.
Does your 4×4 have problems? Are you having problems that make you anxious? Our team knows how to fix common 4-wheel drive problems. We know car problems can be tricky, so we’ve put together a guide with the 7 most common complaints for four-wheelers. Our advice will help you tackle any challenge so you can enjoy the road again. Low tire pressure. Low tire pressure is a common 4WD problem. This happens when your tires don’t have enough air, which makes them less sticky and wears them out faster. Check your owner’s manual for the right tire pressure and use a gauge to make sure your tires are at the right pressure. Inspect your tires for damage or wear.
Is RAV4 AWD always on?
The 2020 Toyota RAV4 has three types of all-wheel drive. These are the standard, dynamic torque vectoring, and hybrid all-wheel drive systems. The basic system is great, but the Dynamic Torque Vectoring option lets each wheel of the 2020 Toyota RAV4 run all the time. Is the Toyota RAV4 all-wheel drive? All Toyota RAV4 trims can be had with all-wheel drive. You can get an AWD setup on any Toyota RAV4. Most Toyota RAV4 trims have front-wheel drive. LE, LE Hybrid, XLE, XLE Hybrid, XLE Premium, Adventure, TRD Off-Road, XSE Hybrid, Limited, Limited Hybrid, All-Wheel Drive, Dynamic Torque Vectoring AWD, electronic On-Demand AWD-i.
How do you know if your AWD is working?
FAQs How do I know if my AWD is working? If the all-wheel drive system stops working, you’ll feel it in the way your vehicle drives. There are other ways to check. Have a friend watch your car’s wheels as you drive. They should be able to tell if all four wheels are getting power. How do I know if my Volvo XC90 has all-wheel drive? Check the car’s manual to see if it’s an all-wheel drive model. You can find out for yourself. Have a loved one or friend watch your wheels as you drive. If all wheels turn together, your Volvo XC90 has all-wheel drive. What does Service AWD System mean? If you see this message on your Volvo, make an automotive service appointment. If your all-wheel drive system is not working, it can be dangerous. Managing a vehicle’s engine is complex. If you’re not a trained technician, it’s best to leave this to a professional.
Is AWD good in snow?
AWD vehicles help you get out of snowy spots, drive on unplowed roads, and accelerate on slippery surfaces. Without winter tires, they’re not as good. AWD doesn’t help much when turning or braking on snow or ice.
2. AWD and 4WD are different. Many people think AWD is enough to handle ice and snow. But there’s little difference between AWD and ordinary cars in winter weather. People often think AWD and four-wheel drive are the same. They’re not the same.
What are the negatives about AWD?
Fuel efficiency is reduced. If you compare vehicles with the same specs except for their drive type, you’ll see that drive type affects fuel economy. AWD uses more fuel, so you might have to fill up more often.
Does AWD engage automatically?
How does AWD work? In an AWD system, torque is sent to all four wheels. Drivers don’t need to act to start the process, but some systems offer modes for choosing how power is distributed. There are two types of AWD: full-time and part-time.
Is AWD active all the time?
The main difference between 4×4 and AWD is that AWD is always on and automatically distributes torque among the axles when needed, while 4WD is part-time and requires the driver to engage it. Auto-engaging AWD vehicles include the Dodge Charger, Dodge Challenger, Dodge Journey, Dodge Durango, and Chrysler 300. The Ram 1500 and Jeep Wrangler models have part-time 4×4. With a part-time 4×4 system, the torque is split 50/50 between the front and rear axles. Locking differentials in the axles help direct torque to wheels with more traction. The Ram 1500 also has a full-time FWD system.
Can you turn AWD off while driving?
The AWD system is always on and doesn’t need the operator’s input. Your AWD vehicle is not for off-roading.
Do you have to activate all-wheel drive?
All-wheel drive is not meant to be used manually, so there’s no need to engage it manually. Some vehicles have an “AWD Lock” button. This button locks the system into 50/50 distribution of power between the front and rear wheels.
📹 Subaru Symmetrical All-Wheel Drive Explained (2020 Updated)
What is Subaru Symmetrical All-Wheel Drive? How does Subaru Symmetrical AWD work? Subaru Symmetrical AWD continuouslyĀ …
ā ā ā FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT THE article / FACT UPDATES ā ā ā \r \r 1) Was this a sponsored Ad by Subaru? – No. I just happen to own a 2006 Subaru Outback at the time of making this article and was curious about how AWD differed from 4WD. So I researched it for myself and afterwards decided to make this article covering what I learned. Just to clarify further I no longer own the Subaru Outback, I now have a 2018 FWD Hyundai SUV as of 1/7/2020. 2) Here are all 4 drive trains in a nut shell. āŗ FWD = Fuel Economy & Slippery Roads āŗ RWD = Performance āŗ AWD = All Weather Conditions \r& Minor Off Road āŗ 4WD = For Serious Off Road\r 3) You have not covered every kind of drive train and 4 wheel drive system – Correct, this is more a laymans overviews of the 4 types of drive trains. with the main goal of explaining the main difference between AWD & FWD. 4) In this article I do state how I got poor fuel economy from my Subaru outback – But after a fuel comprehensive service and some long distance drives, bedding it all in, I averaged 450 klms in suburb driving and 650 klms in country driving. Which was much better than the original 350 klms for Suburb driving i was getting when I bought it second hand.
4WD is direct transfer case and AWD is controlled by centre diff. The system you explained for AWD is Subaru’s symmetrical awd system which is only correct for Subaru vehicles with open diffs. Mine has a rear lsd and definitely can get sideways. AWD systems differ with manufacturers such as Mitsubishi’s active yaw system. Some 4wd vehicles have permanent 4wd. Most modern 4wd are complemented by LSD, locked diff and 4WD engagement options.
Thank you for taking the time on this subject, 👍I have get my hands on a Suzuki sx4 2018 AWD 🤗 a month ago and like the way it works 🧐I live in a Island 100 x 35 miles ( Puerto Rico 🇵🇷 ) roads here are good and we have nice Beach’s whit nice yellow and white Sand ā±ļø ( there some black sand to in some areas ) and nice off road places to test that AWD…in the hills ā°ļø ( 2,450 ft to 4,300 ft ) will see how this little car ( Suzuki sx4 AWD 2018 ) work them next weekend..😎🏝ļø🇵🇷
Great article! Just picked up a ‘23 Crosstrek with a 6-speed manual. Really enjoying the vehicle. Can really tell the difference with the AWD system. Don’t even have the engine broken in yet, so I’ll have to get back to you on observes gas mileage, but it’s rated at 22/29 mpg city/highway. We’ll see how well it does.
2:17 I know exactly where that’s at! I-70 and Wadsworth in Arvada Colorado. I drive past that exact intersection quite often, because i get my gasoline from the Costco, just up the street from there. Great article. Because i live in Colorado, the winters can get quite bad, and there’s so much opportunity for off road driving, that AWD was #1 priority for my car. I ended up with a 2011 Subaru Outback, already drove it during snowy weather, and it is so nice to have AWD.
My mom bought one of the first Foresters from Japan (98 or 99) and still has it. The car was made when Subaru was starting to make everything all wheel drive, though hers might be a mechanical viscous linkage than computer controlled. I’m not sure. What I do know is that the car remains a delight to drive and has held up very well. People in Maine love that car.
Some 4wd vehicles (Defender, Hummer, some Landcruisers and others) are permanent 4wd not part time. They have a centre differential so the front and rear axles are always driven. This gives much better on road stability than a part time system. The centre diff can be manually locked for off roading so they don’t get stuck if one wheel starts spinning.
I would add a more “it depends” caveat to the fuel efficiency aspect. Having driven Subarus (and other cars over the years) I can attest to the fact that your gas mileage varies considerably on how you drive it. Having owned both an STI and an Outback, I can say the mileage on both varied significantly. Both cars could get really good MPG’s if you drove them without stomping on the gas and with a light foot, and both cars could get really ratty mileage if you “lead-footed” your way through the tank. So it just depended. Having also owned a Jeep while living in Colorado I can also attest that AWD is pretty hard to beat for everyday driving, if you live in snow country. The article is correct there. The trade offs are worth it, compared to 4WD in the Jeep – unless you are really off-roading in the high country. The other caveat I would add is that it’s not impossible to spin an AWD Subaru – Colorado winters are proof of that.
Very useful. Thanks. I now grasp why I love my 2014 Crosstrek and why it hardly ever gets more than 23-25 mpg. By the way. I am on my third Subaru. Number one, 2000 Forester, made 185,000 miles and was by far the safest-feeling snow car, and I was commuting several hundred miles every two weeks over the Appalachian Mountains for almost four years. Two was a 2006 Impreza, which was the most fun to drive but the worst snow car.It also made 185,000 miles. It’s snow advantage was I could practice my drift skills on country roads with good sight lines more or less safely. My third is a 2015 Crosstrek which is better on snow than the Impreza but still not up to the Forester. The Subaru Crosstrek is a good car: basically an Impreza with bigger tires and more road clearance. All in all, I rate Subaru very high.
Your article has revealed to me some answers, regarding my 2013 Ford Escape. My previous car was a 98 Chev Malibu with 3.3 liter V6, normally aspired. It served us well for several years, until it began to have problems with the emissions and kept showing a check engine light. Up until that time, it was a very good car. with plenty of power and good mileage; around 30 MPG on the highway. We decided to get the new Ford escape, as we wanted a SUV, and it came with awd and the 1.6 liter turbo. I tend to be a careful driver, seldom push the car, and try to get good mileage and minimum brake wear. We really like our Escape, but we have not been happy with the fuel economy, and it seems to have a little less go than the old 3.3 engine in the Malibu, especially as regards torque. Your article reveals why this happens, so I feel better about the mileage now that I know it is something to be expected. What little I have been in snow with it, there is no problem handling it. It actually takes some effort to make the wheels spin. On balance, a good car overall that serves our needs well.
Great explanation. A lot of people don`t realise that 4WD and AWD are actually different! Also I would like to add that 4WD is actually the older system and is slowly being phased out for the more technically advanced AWD. I am now in my 40s and I have driven FWD and RWD most of my life. Since switching recently to AWD I have felt a lot more confident with my driving and more relaxed behind the wheel, considering I live in a country where most of the year round the roads are wet! AWD rules every time and I would never go back to FWD or RWD!
I had an Outback, used the spare to get to town, the rear diferential seized and blew a 1 inch hole in the side of the case. Replaced the diff, and in about a year was driving very remote with wife and 2 little kids when the new diff caught fire. I was worried that the car would burn up before we could get the kids out. After 3 more miles the diff broke internally, and we were able to go fast enough to snuff the flames. Next day I cut the axles off just inside rear tires unbolted all the rest of rear drive elements and the car drove great and more efficiently for years.
I’m not sure if the information here is completely accurate. 4WD system mentioned here is a part time 4×4 where the user has to manually engage 4wd or 2wd. But there is also. Full time 4wd which stays on all the time that dynamically switches between 2wd and 4wd using a clutch pack. 4wd also uses a transfer case and usually has High or Low gear in 4wd mode.
Over generalization of AWD and 4WD systems and not all are correct. Some AWD systems like Mercedes ones put most the power to the front wheels and not the rear wheels (and adjust as needed), while others put 1/3 to the front and 2/3 to the rear all the time. Also you can’t compare an old car’s fuel mileage/efficiency to a new one based on only how many cylinders it has and if its AWD or not. When it’s that many years difference the technology difference in the engines makes a difference too. Plus some manufacturers just make engines that aren’t as fuel economical as others.
Excellent article. Thanks for making and posting it. Before perusal this I had no idea the difference – AWD seems the safest bet over 4×4 for mainstream day to day driving and your article has greatly helped my buying decision. However, I wonder what the difference would be between a front wheel drive car running a full set of winter tyres would be over an AWD car? I suppose the best result would be AWD and winter tyres. Greetings from Cumbria in the U.K. stay safe and well. I’ve just subscribed.
Great informative article thanks! I always hate trying to explain the difference to people, so thanks. I’m glad Subaru works for you! I could never be confident in a Subaru’s reliability over time. Toyota and Honda now offer AWD systems that get impressive MPG. The 2017 Honda CRV I owned with AWD, averaged over 30mpg during my 4 years, 130K. I agree that 4WD get horrible gas mileage, but that is because they are reserved for tow/haul/off road vehicles. Thanks for the insight!
They are worth it. Even though we don’t have all that many snow days we have a lot of rainy and wet days. All wheel drive is perfect for these conditions. You realize this if you are out and about in a 2 wheel drive car or truck especially if the vehicle has a little bit of power. You are spinning wheels at every takeoff and they don’t feel as “surefooted” on turns and other maneuvers.
Interesting. I kind of always thought something like this was the case, but never knew for sure. I have a GMC Acadia. What I like about the AWD system is that it is designed to be left on all the time. However, it gives you the option to put it in FWD to save fuel. The real world result ends up being a 2-4 MPG boost, especially on long trips in warm, dry weather. We once drove an hour and a half out of town, and the car ended up getting about 31 miles per gallon. Not bad at all for a car as big as it is, weighing 4,100 pounds with a chunky V6 engine.
I live along the coast of Northern Norway. With unpredictable weather and mountainous terrain, we have to drive up and down steep, curvy hills on wet, slushy or icy roads (for around 5 months of the year) whenever we have errands to run. Pretty much every time I park at the grocery store, there is a Subaru Forester parked next to my own Subaru Forester. That makes sense now, after having watched this article.
Subaru owner here, everything good they say about the AWD is true, it’s amazing. Had it in snow, mud and sand and always gets me through. The only downside is if you puncture a tire after they’re worn a little you have to replace all 4 tires. I had that happen once in 5 years, so it’s a trade off but for me it’s worth it.
2:17 Have you tried better tires or lighter gasfoot? I drive rearwheel drive car and have only twice slipped and those were 1: On ice with summer tires and 2: In 15 cm/6″ slush on steep uphill. And no, I don’t drive “super carefully”. I have heavy gasfoot but I know when to lighten it and always have good tires.
Mate, what are you on about?.There are full time 4wd vehicles. Look at Toyota range. The difference is that 4WD have low range while AWD only have high range. MOST of AWD are predominantly run on front wheels only. Rear wheels are engaged when certain conditions are met. Wheel spin has nothing to do with 4WD or AWD. This depends on what type differentials are used and traction control if equipped. Shitty AWD will spin one tyre. Good 4WD will not spin one wheel. Subaru cars have fancy diff and traction control settings which prevents single wheel spin. There are AWD cars that are over 2,5 tonnes in weight and have far more complex drive train then a conventional 4WD. Delete this article and dont confuse people.
It’s not that complicated. 4WD has a transfer case that drives the front and rear axles at the same speed when the 4WD system is engaged, which is mechanically simpler, but is only suitable for use on low-traction surfaces like snow or dirt. AWD has a transfer case with a center differential to allow the front and rear axles to rotate at different speeds, which improves cornering and prevents excessive tire wear, but requires extra hardware to distribute torque effectively in low-traction conditions. 4WD has a shifter to disengage the front wheels when it isn’t needed, whereas AWD doesn’t need this feature. BOTH systems can use the brakes on each wheel, or clutches inside the differentials, to restrain spinning wheels and redirect power to wheels that have traction. However, vehicles with 4WD usually don’t offer this automated torque-distribution feature, and instead offer optional manually-lockable differentials. This is because people who buy vehicles with 4WD generally prefer that extra level of driver involvement, whereas people who buy vehicles with AWD generally want the vehicle to control its own systems without bothering them with the details.
You are mixing up a lot of systems in your article. In modern cars, wheel spin is controlled by traction control (either through ABS, electronically controlled differentials, or by modulating the throttle for drive by wire setups), not the transmission configuration itself. Additionally, sending power to a slipping wheel is also not controlled by the transmission configuration itself, this is done again through a differential. An open diff sends power to the wheel of least resistance, a limit slip diff sends to the slower wheel (ie the wheel with grip), and a welded or locked diff sends to all wheels equally (like what you said was 4WD). RWD is more efficient for acceleration than FWD but NOT more fuel efficient and AWD is the least fuel efficient option due to the energy loss. Driving in FWD until traction is lost is to regain some efficiency (this is pretty much all mechanical AWD systems and most newer ones still use this philosophy). The only part that was close is how hard your ABS has to work is based on transmission configuration. After all these things are considered, that will determine what can accelerate faster and have more grip (assuming the same engine power and torque curves and comparable tire grip). The diagrams are nice, just the facts that are linked to them are all wrong
Only Subaru’s AWD is always on. Other manufacturers’ AWD will only engage when their systems sense tire slippage. Subaru claims theirs is better because it’s always on, but I don’t think this is an advantage because the systems that only engage if tires slip are able to do so at nearly the speed of light. My Genesis G90 w/ AWD performed perfectly in the snowy conditions in Colorado last winter and its AWD only engages if it needs to. It worked awesome.
I live in Michigan where it snows in the Winter. I own a full-time 4WD Jeep, an AWD Lincoln SUV and a 4WD pickup. I always tell people don’t buy anything with those systems unless you absolutely need them, (which the vast majority of people don’t), because from day one you never stop paying for them.
Things are not as simple as that my 2007 jeep cherokee 2.8crd has the option of 2wd rear 4wd full time so ok to drive on the road 4wd part time for off road or snow then there is the 4wd low gear option if that does not cover everything it also has traction control to stop one wheel from spinning if you choose to use it. The only problem is you need to now how to use it all to get the best result unlike an all wheel drive where you just drive it and let the computer do the work and that is why I got my jeep so that I can be in chard not some bloody computer as for fuel consumption best not think about that.
Nice article! I own a full time or constant 4WD Ford Everest. This provides constant 4WD the same as an AWD system but with the added features of a low range transfer case and locking differentials. A very different vehicle to a standard car like the Subaru. AWD’s are sometimes passed off as 4WD’s but are different because of the lack of low range transfer cases for low gearing and differentials which can be locked to drive both wheels on the axle equally. Also, in any vehicle, the differential will always favour a wheel with the least resistance with no limited slip systems, particularly when going around a corner or bend in the road so a rear wheel or front wheel drive is invariably a 1 wheel drive and a 4WD wheel drive is a two wheel with a one front and one rear driving the car in slipping conditions. A locking differential in slipping conditions overcomes this when driving in a straight line. This is all said without the aid of electronic management and mechanical limiting slip systems Hence when discussing these types of systems the differentials are as important as the drive type.
I’ve spun all 4 wheels in 4wd in Low 4wd with front and rear lockers engaged. That’s what low traction situations can do. When on the bitumen I don’t drive in a manner likely to spin wheels because my 4wd isn’t a fun vehicle to have out of control on the road around other people. In the bush it’s great to be out of control.
Sorry mate, you made quite a few fundamental errors. First, there are full-time 4WD systems that cannot be run in 2WD mode. Some part-time 4WD systems are strong enough to drive all 4 wheels if so desired, and some can be switched between 2WD and 4WD on the fly. There are AWD systems that can be set to run in 2WD mode if so desired. Also, torque vectoring is not featured in all AWD systems. Full-time 4WD always has a center differential. The part-time 4WD systems that can’t be run full-time are the ones that lack a center differential. The main difference between 4WD and AWD is that 4WD offers a locking center differential (and optionally other locking differentials) and a low gear. The torque split is 50:50 front to rear with 4WD. AWD systems can offer a range of settings from close to 4WD to completely computer controlled. While some AWD systems (like Subaru’s) power both axles full time, many AWD systems power either the front or rear axle full time, and add power incrementally to the secondary axle as needed. Some AWD systems cannot provide 50% power to the secondary axle, others can. A 4WD system can deliver 100% to either axle if need be. AWD systems can use a variety of methods to split power between axles. Some offer a bias, usually to the rear wheels for better handling. My favorite AWD system so far is Ford’s AdvanceTrac, based on Borg Warner Torque on Demand. It’s a RWD system that uses a computer controlled variable clutch to add more power to the front axle as needed.
Little Miss leading some 4wd cars do not stop been 4wd they only turn off the center diff lock but all 4 wheels still have power to them unless one wheel out of 4 starts to slip much like a AWD in 4wd mode high it locks the center diff so now it takes two wheels to slip to get stuck one front one back you can also get 4wd with front center and back diff locks with all 3 diff locks it takes all 4 wheels to spin before you get stuck, some 4wd cars have 2wd mode but not all.
I got my first AWD being a Kia Sorento and I can say its nice. I live in Washington where there is a lot of rain and in some places snow. I have also not had a single moment of slippage like my old 2wd car. I might get less mileage but not by a ton. On the hwy with my v6 AWD i can hit 28mpg, my car I had would hit 28-30. In the city is where it hits a bit more, average closer to 20 depending on traffic. Worth the extra few bucks a tank.
Actually in my research on the matter, there are a number of different systems that each work a bit differently and whether any given car is labelled as 4WD or AWD is really just marketing. We owned a 2008 Jeep grand Cherokee labelled as 4WD, but it was in fact a fully computer controlled system that sent power to all 4 wheels all the time, adjusting the amount to each wheel based on traction. However, it did have a small handle you could pull to lock the differentials, which would be good for getting out of deep snow or mud or something. In that mode all 4 wheels were given equal power, you were limited to low gears only and the manual said it should never be used on regular, dry roads or for any regular driving. That is similar to what you are describing as 4WD. Also older technology did indeed require the driver to manually enable 4WD mode for when it was appropriate and otherwise it would only be 2WD and that’s what you should use for normal street driving. But since the introduction of multiple differentials in theses systems to allow every wheel to spin at different speeds and have different amounts of power sent to each one, as well as the inclusion of computerized traction control, the distinction between 4WD and AWD has become blurred. 4WD and 4×4 branding is usually still used on trucks and SUVs that used to have the traditional style of manually enabled 4WD and are more often used for off road and such, while AWD branding is used more on cars, crossovers and lighter duty SUVs typically used only in the city.
Living in Ohio, I can say I’m Very happy with my Legacy! I do drive with a heavy foot yet still get 400+ miles on a tank by the time the fuel light comes on. This past year was my first winter with the car & while my neighbors had to dig their cars out after a fresh snow(6-7inches), I got in my car & drove out the neighborhood without much trouble(no I don’t have snow tires). I used to be a Only Ford/Chevy guy but this Subaru i bought Absolutely changed my mind!
I have a bit different experiences. My dad has a 2010 Toyota land cruiser and on that car the 4wd is constantly on, but with no differential locks on unless you put them on to drive off-road. Absolute beast of a car. Sometimes in extreme winter conditions it may slightly slip but nothing serious. The off-road military trucks I have driven during my military service were the same. My mom however has a 2015 awd Toyota rav4. Even the slightest snow causes issues. During better conditions it works ok but if it gets snowy or icy the awd is useless. The rear end just can’t stop swinging if going even slightly too fast. It also struggles to push through when going from a plowed surface to an unplowed one, even if it was just a few centimetres of snow. Even my gfs little Fiat hatchback has a better grip on snow
4wd- 4 wheels are driven Awd- all wheels are driven 4×4- out of 4 wheels,4 wheels are driven If veichle has 4 wheels,and all 4 are driven,that means 4wd=awd=4×4.. If it has 6 wheels and 4 are driven,than it is not awd.it is 4wd or 4×6.. If it has 6 wheels and all are driven,than is awd,6wd or 6×6. What you are explaining in your article is different power transfering, between FULL TIME awd,4wd or 4×4,whatever you want to call it, and PERMANENT time awd,4wd 4×4.. Different car manufacturers put different designations…awd,4wd, 4×4… As i guy who drives Patrol,you should know this…and also it is more fun to drive permanent 4×4,4wd,awd,(whatever),as i also drive Patrol,waiting for snow to have a fun with back end š
The reason I bought an AWD was because it would transfer power from the front drive to the rear whenever it needed. A 4-Wheel drive couldn’t do that automatically. So I would drive on rear normally, and had to switch to 4-wheel when it needed. In addition, I could not drive on 4-H or 4-low all the time, or risk damages. Subaru and the 4_Runner Limited are the only 4-wheel drive that could be driven full time.
Great article! good to see this fact included for once that AWD has that advantage over 4WD. Though I have a great respect for Subaru and have owned one before, I chose the XC70 over the Outback, one of the number of reasons wasI’veterrainacceptI’mand its only ever been stuck once and that was only because I attempted a severely deep rutted muddy track where the ruts were so deep the wheel lost contact with the ground as it was bottomed out/beached underneath, the Subi would also have been stuck there of course due to ground clearance. So now I have an ’06 XC90 for the extra ground clearance š
Well, you explained the difference. As for grip, well, the right set of tires and throttle control will go a long ways on slick surfaces. A lot further than a heavy foot depending on a drive system to compensate for aggressiveness. If that is your problem, absolutely deal with an AWD system and the lower fuel mileage.
First article that doesnt confuse me more, nice and calm so I can understand everything, thanks! Edit: Oh I also had a question! Other articles say that 4WD(im not sure but after perusal your article it makes sense that it is 4WD) is not safe on the road because the wheels should spin at different rates in corners but they are rolling all together and you lose grip, right? Also more probable to break the differential because of that exact reason(wheel spin in corners, especially if you tried to drift it). So, an AWD car is better even if you want to slide on asphalt? It wont break the differential because its sending power to each wheel individually? Im confused because rally cars have AWD and for example the subaru in Baby Driver drifts all the time but I thought it would break due to tension created. I wrote so much that I think I just answered myself but if somethings wrong, well, let me know!
I had a 2011 subaru legacy and I never spun out in snow but you definitely can’t stop. I’ve slid down hills at stop signs and almost gone into curbs at 10 mph in slushy snow. I now have a 2017 Honda CR-V with AWD and i definitely notice it get hinky when driving through puddles but I havent spun tires or slipped trying to stop in the rain, even with the tires worn. Haven’t driven it in bad snow yet. Another fact about 4wd and awd cars is if you have damage to one tire bad enough to need to replace it you’re stuck buying 4 new tires because they have to be close to identical in wear or else it can mess up the differential. Something about having to constantly supply more power to a certain side all the time. Also, your tires make a big difference as well. If you can afford to have a set of winter tires to swap out that can improve snow performance drastically. I’m not a professional but just sharing what I know.
My 2013 Suzuki Grand Vitara had the best of both worlds. There was a setting that would automatically kick it into 4 wheel drive when it was slippery. So, moist of the time, I was in two wheel drive but when i hit an ice patch of slipery snow, the 4 wheel drive would kick in. Of course there was also a full time 4 wheel drive setting as well (hi and lo)
What you have said here is all true and very well spoken though I do have to chime in on one aspect, my 2015 Honda CRV All Wheel drive still gets 35mpg and I prove that on a daily commute of 250 -330 mile round trips. I travel to the Bay Area in California US and it’s a level commute “no hills” and it’s also freeway though it can be a high traffic commute with plenty of stop and goes and that does hit me down to 28-30 mpg on those days. Anyway I guess I don’t have any “none AWD” data to compare this to in respect to the weight differential aspect. Hmm a nice brain teaser to keep me thinking on my long commutes thank you. And thanks for taking the time to share this information for those of us that love to expand our knowledge of those issues we normally wouldn’t think twice about.
4-wheel drive is activated at the touch of a button or pull of a lever. You have hubs in the front that can be locked or unlocked mechanically. (You only activate the transfer case in the 4-wheel drive mode when on slippery surface) With the front hubs unlocked, the axles do not spin to reduce the wear on the universal joints and to reduce the amount of weight that has to be spun when activated in the lock position. Also, the front differential does not have the same gear ratio as the rear. It has one less tooth on the ring gear. The reason for this is to have a larger pull on the front than the push from the rear wheels. The all-wheel drive models do not have front locking hubs. The wheels are always ready to be driven. Both drive systems have two differentials and a transfer case. The one difference between the two is that the all-wheel drive has an extra differential in the transfer case. This stops the front wheels from locking up when turning on non-slippery surfaces like pavement. 😁
The poor fuel mileage is due to the added friction ie the extra mechanical stuff to be turned. Weight is not that big a deal. If you want to verify, take two identical car, Toyota pickup is easy, weigh them both and add the extra weight of 4WD to the bed of the 2WD and see if they get the same mileage. The 2WD will always get better mileage because it has less friction.
There IS another variation on 4WD, not discussed herein, with its OWN advantages and disadvantages: “Full-time 4WD” which is designed to be constantly engaged. (Example: my 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser with 6-speed manual transmission.) This rare model (and some other truck-based editions) constantly provides all the advantages of selectable 4WD, but no shifting is needed when added traction/stability is needed. It also comes with a two-speed transfer case, so its capabilities in really rugged terrain are superior. What’s not wonderful? Limited model availability with a significant up-front price bump, additional weight/mechanical complexity and servicing expense, plus some lost fuel economy (due to the extra moving parts and weight). Everything’s a trade-off, but if you can justify it, you’ll have a truly sure-footed beast….
I bought an used 2021 Subaru Impreza hatchback sport in Manual transmission and I love it but, the lack of power, 5 speed shift, and low mpg compared to say the Kia Rio which gets 36mpg combined, is disappointing. Still the Impreza is well built and I love the manual. But your ultimate conclusion of “driving conditions” is the true test. I am only getting about 22mpg with the manual and I probably will never need the AWD in Mobile Alabama 🤣. At least the mpg is indeed better than the old truck. Thanks for your great review…🏹🤠👍
Not sure I agree. My Suzuki SX4 has the option for three different settings: “Front wheel drive” only. Or “Auto”, which means the drive will go gradually from either front wheel drive only to fifty-fifty front and rear wheel drive, depending on grip – I suppose this is what you mean by All Wheel Drive. Or “fully locked”, meaning exactly fifty-fifty front and rear wheel drive regardless of grip (which is not recommended to use on anything but slippery surfaces, because on grippy surfaces this setting might damage your gearbox). Which I suppose is roughly what you mean by Four Wheel Drive. But there is no way of getting rear wheel drive only, or even anything like “51 percent rear wheel drive”, on my Suzuki. So while I appreciate your effort at explaining how different versions of four wheel/all wheel drive works, it doesn’t quite cover everything. Still pretty useful, though.
I just scored a 1999 Honda CRV with all-wheel drive, I cannot tell you how happy I am, as we live in a region where it snows for 1/3 of the year it is nice to know that I will be able to get to work, unless there is multiple feet of snow, but no one’s going to work that day so it really doesn’t matter if that happens
I’ve owned a variety of 4WD vehicles through the years (I live in an area that can experience extreme winter weather, and have had to rely on it enough times that I’m willing to pay the “mileage tax” of driving it when I don’t need it.) That said, I don’t do a lot of off-roading and, as a result, the best winter-driving car I’ve ever owned was an ’02 Subaru Forester. We had a lot of snow that winter, and it never stumbled or hesitated once. I’d probably still be driving it, but the timing belt broke while I was on the freeway and made a royal mess of the engine.
I like the added stability of AWD. In fact i dont think i will be able to drive a car without it. But its important to understand its limitations. It might be good for cars to go but it wont help them stop. Oh and its always painful to see that i get 18.5MPG in the city, whereas my sedan used to get 23.
Best explanation of AWD I’ve seen. I bought a Hinda CR-V with AWD and I normally get 28-29MPG and often 31-32MPG. My ONE THING I really like is I live on a dirt road that’s often wet and muddy. It never slips, spins or loses traction compared to my prior RWD vehicles. My driveway is somewhat difficult for RWD vehicles to negotiate as it is on a grade and then turns back approx 140* and climbs steeply in the other direction. The CR-V makes the turn with no spinning. Everything else spins the tires and digs holes and ruts. It may be the ONLY THING I like about the CR-V and Honda as it’s an electronic POS and Honda doesn’t care. I was told not to bring it back for the discrepancies. Don’t buy a vehicle that even the dealer doesn’t support.
Is 4×4 50:50 split front to rear Or different distribution? Bc I see cars like Lexus GX that is full time “4×4” but then has a center diff lock which says activates power distribution 50 in front and 50 in rear. If that’s the case, what is the distribution unlocked? Wouldn’t it make it full time AWD and not 4×4? I know GX has 4low transfer case.
I have an EVO and I love it’s AWD system! I can’t see myself driving a front or rear only driven car ever again. It shines in bad terrain and rainy weather, it feels infinitely more safe, and I can cut corners at speeds that no 2WD car can ever dream of. The only drawback is the added weight, complexity and fuel consumption that I think is more than fair trade for the benefits it brings.
When talking about whether it’s worth choosing an AWD car over a FWD or RWD, it’s also important to consider maintenance costs. AWD cars require the owner to rigorously rotate and replace tires, and to make sure they at least replace in pairs, if not the entire set at once; as well as making sure to drive on a spare as little as possible. That will drive up costs over the years, but the real kicker is repair/replacement of the transmission itself. If you don’t keep up with the tires, you’ll be paying a much heftier bill to get that transmission fix. Important things to consider. If you live somewhere with very little elevation change, minimal snow, and don’t plan on driving off the pavement very often, it’s probably wiser to give your wallet a break and just go for a FWD vehicle. If wet roads give you trouble, it might be worth the investment, but cautious driving can keep you safe without breaking the bank.
All good points in the article. But let’s revisit a classic: rear wheel drive. It sucks in bad weather and other bad traction situations. In good conditions, (and a manual transmission – we are talking about adults here ) drop the gear, using heal-toe if needed, and punch the throttle around the apex of the turn – the car turns itself and it feels like you are floating. It makes driving fun.
I have an old Octavia 1.9 tdi; it’s a utility workhorse and ideal for carrying loads and generally getting dirty etc. I have put four-season tyres on it and it drives very well indeed in very poor weather including icy conditions. I used to run a Gen 7 Celica with winter tyres and I was completely astonished at how well the thing handled in the snow. Conclusion: unless you are regularly driving in quite severe off-road conditions, you’re wasting your money keeping a 4WD or AWD vehicle. 2WD with winter tyres is by far the biggest open secret to increased automotive traction in poor conditions which easily serves the daily needs of probably 95% of drivers.
Look A lot of people may frown on the idea of having a Subaru buts its a reason they get repeat customer purchases but I own my first and they are amazing I purchased it mainly for the cargo space that my dogs need. They are amazing vehicles..I blow by everybody in the rain and snow. They probably think im aggressive but now its just unreal how stable they are when you accelerate and even accelerating during a turn the car will not betray you the confidence that this car gives you is unmatched. A guy who designs and builds all wheel dive systems for Mercedes told me Subaru makes the best,period..and don’t let that boxer engine fool you it can run. Go test drive a Subaru Accent its a beautifully made car almost drives itself…
Some data points for you. My 2016 AWD CR-V with 2.4L engine would use about 10.6 LCK when I lived in a dense part of Burnaby. About 420km estimated range on the display. But now in the outer burbs of Vancouver I use about 7.6 LCK with the CR-V AWD when I fill it shows over 600km range. While my prior car, a 2.3L 2004 Ford Focus would use 10.8 LCK in the city and I had to fill it every 300km. But then small Fords are notorious for having small fuel tanks.
AWD allows differentiation between front and rear drivelines. It’s a form of 4WD that’s designed for use even on high-traction surfaces. Some vehicles have low-range capability, independent of 4WD, like Jeeps with Atlas tcases. Some AWDs can “lock” the center to become 4WD too, like the Suzuki SX4, 4Runner, various Jeeps, etc. Many modern AWD/4WD vehicles also have TCS/VDC, front and/or rear LSDs, and/or front and/or rear lockers. Not many vehicles offer the versatility of a SelecTrac Jeep with ARB lockers and a super-low tcase gearset. I believe the new Bronco also offers lockers, AWD, low-range, and 4WD…as does the 4Runner TRD Pro.
One thing I’m not sure on is that 4WD vehicles normally don’t have a center differential, so in low-traction conditions, power is distributed equally between the front and rear axle, but I don’t know if AWD vehicles have a center differential or not. I would think that they do, since it makes more sense to me to have that for on-road driving conditions, with some sort of clutch or lock on this center differential for off-road conditions. In regards to efficiency, on my vehicle there is a noticeably increase in drivetrain resistance going from 2-H to 4-H, which I imagine would effect my fuel economy if I were to drive in 4WD all of the time (though on dry pavement it would be likely to destroy my transfer case to do so).
All-wheel drive in its most primitive form simply has an unlocked center differential compared to part-time four-wheel drive. That’s it. In the case of both modern four wheel drive and modern all-wheel drive there can be a lot more to it. With brake based traction control and things like power transfer units it’s arguable that the difference between the capability of all-wheel drive compared to 4-wheel drive is less different these days.
Most 4WD have a 4WD and 4WD Lock mode. The front to rear torque split is variable in 4WD due to a differential action in the transfer case. It is this center differential that is locked in 4WD Lock mode. AWD has the same wheel slip problem in poor traction that 4WD has but it is managed by computer applying the brakes for you and can do so per wheel.
About 18 months ago I bought a 2017 Toyota Rav4 Hybrid which is all wheel drive, but the rear wheels are electric only with a separate motor. The front wheels are powered by an electric motor and/or 4 cylinder gas engine. I get about 38 miles per gallon which is slightly better than I go with my previous car which was a 2007 Chrysler PT cruiser 4 cylinder with manual (stick) transmission, but it weighed about 800 pounds less and was just physically smaller in every way.
Another thing to consider is that apparently Subaru requires and vehicles need to have all 4 tires replaced at one time. My sister had her Subaru for 2 months, road debris damages the side wall, not even punctured. All tire shops insisted that Subaru demands all four be replaced. They would not sell one or even two tires to her. Cost > $1250. I have AWD from a different manufacturer and they do not require this. So talk to the dealer to confirm.
Subaru’s “Symmetrical All-Wheel Drive” system is probably one of the safest, most reliable, high-performance, technologically advanced AWD systems on the market today and has been for decades now. It’s also one of the most lightweight systems and offers some of the best fuel economy for AWD vehicles. The “Quattro” system by Audi is probably one of the closest contenders in terms of performance and such, but you’re going to be paying substantially more for it. Subaru has made the safety, security, and performance of an AWD system available at a much more accessible and affordable price bracket when compared to similar models in a respective vehicle class, and I can’t recommend them enough to anyone honestly. I’ve owend a couple Subarus over the years and loved them both immensely (I bought a brand new WRX Premium back in 2013 and traded it in just shy of four years later towards a late model STi Limited that I put some work into to maximize performance), especially living in the northern part of the Midwestern United States where our winters are especially long and cold and we have multiple feet of snow on the ground for at least six plus months out of the year… I no longer own a Subaru, but I totally would if I were still driving these days. I used to sell new Subarus and Mitsubishis for a living, and the only reason I stuck around in that business for as long as I did was because I believed genuinely and whole-heartedly in the product. I started out in new vehicle sales before getting bumped to selling both new and used – which was great because it increased my commission income three to four fold and allowed me to schedule far more appointments on a day to day basis.
There’s another difference between your old Galant and your Outback: weight. Because of the increasing safety regulations, modern cars have multiple airbags, roof crush protecetion, etc.; these add weight. My old Dodge Omni weighed 2,200 pounds; my present, 2015 Ford Focus weighs about 3,000. Why? My Dodge had no airbags, while my Focus has 6-8. The roof pillar on my Focus is also beefy, so as to not crush in the event of a rollover. Your Galant had, at most, two airbags: one for the driver, and perhaps one for the front seat passenger. That is to say that your Galant’s V6 had a lot less weight to move; since it didn’t work as hard, it got better fuel economy. Anyway, thanks for the article!
Not in my Nissan, power always stay in the front except when accelerating. When cruising along 95% always goes to the front. It also has an AWD lock which works great in the snow. I can putter around town and get 27 mog or more. What’s funny is that on the highway once I get about 65-70 mph my mileage drops even on a relatively flat stretch of road, it’s even worse in the wind. The highest I ever got on the instant mileage was 40 on 2 lane road where my speed did not exceed 50 mph and averaged about 30mph.
Regarding your comment about 4wd not meant to be on all the time, I know specifically with the 02 Jeep Grand Cherokees with the 4.0l straight six and the selec trac transfer case, you can ride in 4wd all the time on any road surface. Says so directly in the owners manual, plus I had one for years and utilized the full time 4wd option many many times. I miss that thing so much
My car is AWD, but is FWD biased. It will only out torque/power in the rear wheels if it detects the front wheels slipping. I.e if it’s raining and the road is wet at the traffic lights. The lights turn green. I accerlerate hard. The front wheels do spin for half a second, but that’s all. I get awesome traction the rest of the way because the AWD has kicked in.
So in Hyundai Tucson the vehicle is All wheel drive, but the computer can adjust where the power goes. So at start all 4 wheels have power but then when we are cruising it’s only the front wheels. The computer doing that and disengaging the all wheel function at speed should help alleviate the downsides you mention for the system, right?
My subarus have a fuse port under the hood on the passenger side. When I put the fuse in it switches to front wheel drive and a red light displaying FWD will come on in the instrument panel. Mine are 98 and 99 legacy Outback models. Dont know if all models have this feature but it’s kind of nice having a choice
I’ve always had FWD cars, here in France, when I lived in Canada as well (with tough winters you know), and in any country I’ve rent a car, sometimes with harsh condition too. And guess what, I never lost control when launching at a stop sign or when turning sharp in wet conditions. Maybe if you released the clutch faster and push the gas more slowly you wouldn’t have this kind of problem 😂. But I agree: if you are a dummy driver, get yourself a 4WD.
Wrong . All wheel drive can have more than 4 wheels. i.e. 8×8 trucks. 4 wheel drive by definition has 4 driven wheels. Part time four wheel drive has 2 driven wheels, the other two freewheeling until activated. This can be manually by a lever, electronically by a button or automatically like the system on the Audi TT where is senses a difference in speed between the front and back wheels and engages the drive to the other two wheels.
Are those numbers in the end correct? Are the km’s supposed to be miles? I get about 900km out of the 50l tank of my Peugeot 5008 (An SUV from 2016). And I used to get 1100 kms out of my previous car, a peugeot 806, a family van, from ’95. (suburb driving.) I heard before cars in europe tend to be more fuel efficient, I didn’t think it would be that big a difference.
My dad and I always had 2 wheel drive vehicles and managed all weather conditions yes some slippage but nothing major. At least I can say for me I have driven front an rear wheel drive and 4×4 never liked that one since back then the gears inside can say 1 thing but the hubs don’t tell you are in 4×4 high. So the highway it burned so much gas. Never again plus it possibly had damage to the drive train. I liked all wheel drive. But as you said it looses milage. Which I hate. But when bad weather hits I take my time not trying to spin on the ice like every one else does.
There are many imprecisions in this article. The Guy Talking says ge never Spun the Tires because if AWD… Very much incorrect statement. TRACTION CONTROL and the STABILITY CONTROL are the ones that prevent Slipping and Sliding. If you Disable the Stability Control and the Traction Control, and AWD will Slip off the line, not a lot, but it will… The issue happens if you Slide an AWD, in which case as you try to Control the Slide, you will find yourself without Traction Power as the Slipping Tire is wasting all the Power away leaving you with no Traction, hence you’re out of Control and likely crash! Search online, and watch how many articles of People doing Burnout and Donuts with AWD Cars there are… Once you disable the Stability Control and Traction Control, AWD slide like crazy and on the Snow: they get stuck in a flat parking lot because all 3 Differentials are open
Your AWD 4cyl is getting poor mileage because it is underpowered. Get a small 6 cyl and you’d be amazed at the difference. Little engines work harder, therefore use more fuel. V8’s are usually used for hauling or heavy loads (trucks and large vans etc) so will use more fuel simply because of the work load they are performing. A mid sized vehicle, not used for hauling or doing heavy work, will get better mileage by using a small to mid sized 6 cylinder engine. 4 cyl engines are better suited to small runabouts, or little, light FWD cars.
Is their really a difference between AWD and 4WD? I thought it was different badging between different car makes/models (Like 4-Motion and Quattro). The real difference should be in what kind of system you run, either mechanical, electrical, hydraulic, etc. Like for exampe “Haldex vs Torsen vs Viscosity Coupling”. Also, more cars are probably constant fwd while having a system that activates your rear wheels when needed. Also wheel slippage has a lot to do with what kind of differentials you are running. An open diff will have problems sending power to the wheel with most traction, even on a car that delivers power to all 4 wheels, you will probably just power 1 wheel on each axle. While on the other hand a Limited Slip Differential will help you lock both wheels rotation to each other by either friction plates or worm-/spur gear assemblies and by that deliver the same amount of power to both wheels on said axle.
Early land rovers were the 4wd you describe…..selectable 4wd from rear axle 2wd plus high low transfer case….a lot of knobs and levers…I learned to drive in these “trucks”. Many LR’s then came with front hubs that could be disengaged from the axle which improved mileage when using 2wd in the city so a lot of fiddling when switching from 2wd to 4. Starting with the Range Rover LR made the system more user friendly with constant 4wd meaning the front axle was always engage via a center differential and traditiinal transfer case from either an automatic or manual gearbox which regulated constant power to front and rear axles with bias set into the system to provide about 20% more power to the rear axle. No electronics at all. Center locking diffs were available on Defenders and Discoveries which allowed the driver to lock front and rear axles at the same rate while using hi or low as in a traditional 4wd. Even today, LR are basically the same constant 4wd but managed through electronics and I believe the only company that does this.
The information in this article is probably only about 30% accurate. There’s is so much more to it than what is mentioned. First of all awd, 4wd, 4×4, etc, are all synonyms. Second of all they all work so differently depending on the brand and most are fwd driven. But it’s true that subies are rwd driven and always on. Some brands use aldex differentials that only send power to the rear wheels when slip is detected, like my volvo for instance. And so on, and so on. Quattro, 4motion, volvo awd, Subaru, etc, it’s all very different and will offer different advantages. Subaru offers one of the best performing awd system but is less fuel efficient but it’s not true for all the awd systems some are pretty good in terms of fuel consumption. You may be good at editing articles but your content sucks. Btw the 2.5 in the outback has a power to weigh ration that is terrible. Don’t expect a good fuel consumption anyhow.
Well my truck has an AWD move. From what research I’ve done it is that it relies on clutch packs to put power where it is needed. It is also a 4WD vehicle with the traditional transfer case that can do the 50/50 split between the front and back. Quite a versatile vehicle. I usually drive in 2WD unless there is bad weather then I put on AWD and only turn on 4WD when I am driving off road.
AWD doesn’t send power to the rear for maximum efficiency. The drivetrain just happens to be physically connected to the rear wheels. The front wheels are usually separated by a transfer case, which has to distribute a portion of the power to the front (up to half if fully locked). It also has to allow slipping to allow for the front and rear wheels to spin at different rates (similar to the function of a differential). This means it will eventually wear out and need rebuilding. It also means you have more frictional losses than a 4WD car in 2 wheel mode.
Interesting. I drive a Peugeot 4007. It has 2 wheel drive, for use on dry roads where the speed is steady for miles; 4 wheel drive which is the normal for country, wet, and urban roads, which is most of the time; and it also has 4 wheel lock which locks all differentials for use off road, in snow or anywhere that is slippy. Selection can be done while moving. Two wheel drive is to the front wheels which gives heavy tire wear. The default is 4 wheel drive which split 60% to the front and 40% to the rear, a very stable configuration that is gentle on tires. With a set of tires, named Grabbers, in ten years I have never been stuck even in snow deep enough to cover the bottom few inches of the body when using 4 wheel lock. It can out perform cars with traction control much to a driver’s surprise as this off roader in civilian guise sails effortlessly past them.
AWD, 4WD, Traction Control and Stability Control are all different kind of systems. You are talking like only AWD is never prone to slippage, which is definitely not true. Furthermore, any FWD or RWD car can have traction and stability control to prevent you from sliding off on wet. Turning 180 even with them off is also not something to “brag” about. I am actually even wondering how people are able to slip their cars or not at least maintain control and how much of an non-careful driving habits you must have to count purely on drive-train to keep you safe from sliding away of your intended road.
About the fuel economy, I have old 1999 subaru outback and it come with gas system installed. Most of the Subaru in Europe are with that extension. Anyway in a highway or out of the city the fuel consumption is 10-11 liters per 100km which cost me about 5 euro per 100km. For city driving it burns about 17-18lit per 100km which cost about 9 Euro. Also gas systems does not pollute that much. Its a win – win
This generalization make no sense. Every system is different, you cannot categorize them. And even if you do as you say you can see a, by your definition AWD vehicle, the kJ, spin. And if you think that AWD/4WD cars don’t spin under wet or even dry conditions you are badly mistaken. this coming from a mechanical engineer
This article is not exactly correct. Awd and 4wd comes from the transfer case. 4wd divides engine power evenily to 4 wheels. Awd transfer case slips by nature so that is why only one pair of wheels can only be the default. Awd uses a different type of diffs compaired to 4wd to allow every wheel to spin at different speeds.Each car manufacturer has a default set of driving wheels. All subarus with awd, their default is 60 percent of power on the front and 40 in the rear. Subarus mainily have been a fwd car with the rear assist. Honda element 4×4 option is setup the same way. There will always be wheel slippage, even on Audi and Subaru awd drive systems. This is how the transfer of power to moved to the other wheels. You may not feel the wheel slippage but your subaru detects the mph or kmh at each wheel to be more precise.
This incorrect, you are confusing differential lock with permanent 4WD. There are many variants of the way all four wheels are driven and the days of a switch being on the dash are long gone, almost all modern vehicles manager the transmission by computer. Recent Land Rovers and Range Rovers mimic a diff lock by braking a spinning wheel.